Few other fashion experiences provide a sensory overload like haute couture, and that was certainly true of Raf Simons’s absolutely exquisite and electric (and not to mention playfully erotic) spring 2015 haute couture collection for Christian Dior. Simons has proved himself quite the master at creating the perfect mise-en-scène for his couture outings. Here, in a towering edifice erected slap bang in the middle of the stately gardens of the Musée Rodin, was a show space constructed out of gleaming white girders and gantries in some insane formations, then carpeted pretty much everywhere with a bois du rose tapis the trippy kaleidoscopic vibe amplified by mirrors reflecting the set into infinity. The hallucinogenic effect of all this does, of course, draw all-too-delicious comparisons with the hothouse environment that couture is created in, because after all, where else can one’s wildest, craziest, most fantastical impulses become a kind of reality?
My visit at the DIOR showroom, Paris, via Instagram by @andreajankeofficial
Still, to think that this collection is only surface would belie the depth Simons brought to his creative process. Speaking to him further, it became evident that he was also thinking about material culture, specifically that of the fifties, sixties, and seventies, and what each decade means to him, namely romanticism (1950s), experimentation (1960s), and liberation (1970s), riffing on everything from William Klein’s Who Are You, Polly Maggoo? to Kansai Yamamoto’s psychedelic catsuits for David Bowie circa 1972′s Ziggy Stardust Tour. Many of the looks bore the hallmarks of different decades: viz a dress of very Monsieur Dior volumes spliced with curving cutouts on the body, akin to those seen on some insane look a body-painted Veruschka would have worn around the time of the Summer of Love, paired with glam-rock kinky wet-look leather boots resting on silver frame heels.
And there was yet more to all this: Deep down in this collection was Simons’s ongoing exploration of female sexuality, to which his choice of time frame was important, given it went through some radical and far-reaching changes from the fifties to the seventies. But maybe going further and further into this collection doesn’t really matter here, not when what was evident to the naked eye was quite so fantastic.
Discover the DIOR Spring 2015 Haute Couture show at the end of this post!
Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories
Photo Credit/Source: The House of DIOR
Photos: Delphine Achard (Stills), Yannis Vlamos / Indigitalimages
More To Love ...
For spring 2015 haute couture Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli are in the mood for love. Their inspiration board was lined with quotes from Shakespeare, bits and pieces of Dante's Inferno, and the paintings of Marc Chagall, hopeless romantics all. Chagall, in particular, captivated them. "He had an incredible life, very hard, but he maintained his optimistic vision," Piccioli said.
VALNTINO Spring 2015 Haute Couture gown with 3.500 hours of golden lamé
embroidery inspired by Dante Aligheri's 'Divine Comedy' -
view my slow motion teaser on Instagram by @andreajankeofficial