Roksanda Ilincic had a great Fall/Winter '14/15 show. She may have felt this by the flock of reporters who literally swarmed her within seconds of her bow, but her audience sensed it a few minutes earlier while watching her industrial, colorful, architectural designs hit the runway. She started off softly. The first looks were subdued, almost monastic-felt dresses that mixed giant panels of navy, bordeaux, sand, and cornflower blue. They were cinched with large metal belts that added an urban and modern sensibility.
Then hemlines and waistlines started getting chopped up into exaggerated, asymmetrical silhouettes, a theme among London designers this season. The same goes for embellishment. Artfully, graphically arranged beads are the new print, and Ilincic’s creations were inspired by the work of American artists Jessica Stockholder and Mel Bochner (known, respectively, for her bright, playful sculptures made of simple cutout shapes, and his blocky and busy word paintings), as well as the jagged landscape and clever use-what-you-can-find construction of Rio de Janeiro’s shantytowns.
All this motivated Ilincic to rework her own rubber and plastic scraps from past collections, cut them into a million different small shapes, and then attach every last one to the front of a cool, long, sleeveless dress, a T-shirt, and a strapless dress that would make an excellent choice for evening. That all this energy was grounded by Nicholas Kirkwood’s pointed-toe tassel loafers and a supersimple pulled-back hairstyle made this collection all the more accessible for real women. Ilincic proved that herself as, before facing said swarm of reporters after the show, she swiped a colorblocked fur coat off the rack and threw it on over her black turtleneck, ready for anything.
For her recent Cruise 2015 presentation four weeks ago Roksanda stated: "My colorblocking is always done in a way that's more like a collage, less about lines." Ilincic said, she is confident betting on blue and burgundy now that she can showcase her complete aesthetic within her first boutique, which was opened recently at 9 Mount Street, London's West End.
Selections by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories
Photo Credit/Source: VOGUE
Photography by Kim Weston Arnold (Indigitalimages) & Sonny Vandervelde
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'Signatures are: Color is one, and it's hard to miss here. Yellow, as bright and pungent as a lemon, cuts through all of the darker pieces and plays nicely with the collection's toylike blue and pink.'