"We believe that couture can be a private luxury not just for the red carpet or special occasions," said Maria Grazia Chiuri. "So we wanted to really work on daywear for the first time." At Valentino, Chiuri and her design partner Pierpaolo Piccioli already own a beautiful look which has swept through fashion that slim, renaissance-virginal dress with long sleeves so many young women adore. This collection affirmed their authority in the decorative, breathtaking arts of evening dressing in a spirit Piccioli describes as "regal." A glance at the long ivory and pale gold lace dress with an exquisite scalloped-edged train or the column of beige velvet with chrome yellow flower appliqués, or the silver-sprigged, cloudy gray chiffon gown under a tweed floor-length cape illustrates what he means. For all their extravagance, there's a quietly dignified presence about these clothes which keeps them from being "princessy."
Discover the video 'VALENTINO Fall 2013 Couture Backstage' at the end of this post!
But what Chiuri was drawing attention to the daywear is the interesting development. The successors to Mr. Valentino Garavani's living legacy of grand Roman couture have only just dared to turn their attention to tackling the kind of tailoring the maestro (who was sitting approvingly in the front row) used to design for the Ladies Who Lunch. Now, they want to do for suits and coats what they've succeeded in doing for party dresses: make them relevant for a new generation's way of life.
The general theme of the collection was the idea of the "Wunderkammer" the seventeenth and eighteenth century tradition of the cabinet de curiosités in which aristocratic collectors would display exotic specimens culled from nature (shells, sea creatures, taxidermy) and archaeological oddities. That's how the motifs of scallop shells, coral, and fragments of ancient roman carvings made their way into many of the clothes, and inspired the mother-of-pearl Miniaudieres with jeweled golden clasps cast in the shape of signs of the zodiac some of the girls were clutching. Yet the most compelling things for day were ones which were completely austere: an amazing caped coat and dress in camel double-faced cashmere with neat, rounded shoulders, which had a fluidity in movement; a cape-backed gray tweed sheath-dress; a herringbone pencil-skirt with a matching coat and lace blouse. Stripped of all padding and linings, impeccable in their proportions from shoulderline to graceful, mid-calf lengths, they were riveting examples of exactly what traditional couture can offer to a modern woman. Elegance for day? We need more of it. In a world of show-off bloggers posing outside shows, a woman wearing any one of these would cut a sophisticated swath through the crowd.
The VALENTINO Haute Couture fashion show was held yesterday-eve,
Hotel Salomon de Rothschild with this amazing entrance!
Some of my impressions during the show via Instagram
Selections by ANDRE JANKE Finest Accessories
Photo credit/Source: VOGUE
Photography by Yannis Vlamos / InDigitalteam / GoRunway
Andrea Janke | ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories
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"Giambattista Valli was thinking of “porcelain goddesses” for his appropriately fragile and delicate haute couture show, its runway decorated with classical statuary draped in garlands of white hydrangea."