Paris Fashion Week - VALENTINO Spring/Summer 2012 - Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli have reached that state of grace at VALENTINO, a house which has always "owned" such nebulous qualities as prettiness, fragility, and romance. At one point, it seemed as if those notions could have slipped into history with the retirement of Valentino himself. But now his successors are achieving an effortless balance between maintaining the fantasy, and making it beautifully accessible to a modern girl. Their spring show was a long essay on Valentino's supremacy in the art of finessing everything that can be done with lace, but brought wholly into a contemporary context.
Enjoy this fabulous detailed collection view and the VALENTINO Spring/Summer 2012 Fashion Show at the end of this post! LoL, Andrea
Chiuri and Piccioli said they'd been looking at Mexican folk embroidery and the photography of Graciela Iturbide and Edward Weston, not that you really need to know this. The knack they have is for using intricate and delicate fabric and making it simple to wear. Their first looks, which they said were derived from "dowry lace", were made in a cotton canvas reminiscent of the liens you still see used in Italian homes. From there, they worked on lace appliquéd onto organza in flounces, fine Chantilly net, lace worked into micro-flowers, denser, and crunchier guipure right through to silvery, slightly Deco metallic lace for the finale.
It could easily have been a case of overkill, or just an exhausting exhibition of couture-grade fabric wares. But for all the labor that goes into materials, the clever part is the way the designers reined it back from being cloyingly ingénue or sugary. Part of that is due to their modest but flattering shapes, usually neatly fitted into a slightly raised waist, with high necklines and some kind of quiet emphasis on the sleeves, which bloom into gentle puffs or soft balloons caught into the cuff. And part of it is their modern and realistic understanding of how a girl wants to feel and move when she goes out. Most of their girls walked in flat thong sandals with tiny, glittery block heel, looking as if they'd just shrugged on their dresses and run out, feeling easy and comfortable with themselves. And who wouldn't want to beone of them?
VALENTINO Spring/Summer 2012 Fashion Show
Selections made by ANDREA JANKE Finest Accessories
Photography by © Marcio Madeira/FirstView
Photo Credit/Source: © VOGUE
SEE ALSO ...
'La Raison D'Être: Valentino Couture 2011/12'
'VALENTINO Couture SS 2011 - Dreamy Appeal'
'VALENTINO Via Monte Napoleone'
VALENTINO RTW Fall/Winter 2011/12